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Casing Cutter User Guide

Casing Cutters are designed for cutting large steel pipe using a round cutting blade. The Casing Cutter can be lowered to the desired depth by threading the Casing Cutter to the end of drill pipe. Air pressure is used to activate the blade while rotating. Most cuts are made in under two minutes.

Casing cutter

Construction - Casing Cutter housings are made of a thick-gauge steel. Casing Cutters must be made very durable to withstand extreme forces while cutting. High quality alloy materials are used. Critical parts are heat treated, including the cutter blade.

Sizes - Casing Cutters are made for 6" to 14" pipe. Custom sizes for 16" pipe and larger are also available. So far any size a customer has asked for has been made, including a 28" Casing Cutter.


Q. How many cutter wheels/blades are in the Casing Cutter?
A. One.

Q. How long will a cutter blade last?
A. Several cuts if you are careful, but sometimes only one.

Q. How do you know if the cutter blade needs to be replaced?
A. Visual inspection, see if the sharp edge is gone.

Q. How long do the Roller Balls last?
A. Longer than the blades, they are hard chrome ball bearings.

Q. How thick of pipe will the Casing Cutter cut?
A. 1/4" to 3/8". Also 1/2" with special tooling.

Q. What thread connector is at the top of the Casing Cutter?
A. 3 1/2" API pin

Casing Cutter disassembled

Parts List

Complete Unit - Part # Casing Cutter 6000
Part Numbers
Casing Cutter parts
  1. Top Pin Connector
  2. Piston
  3. Piston Seal
  4. Cylinder Top Barrel
  5. Main Center Body
  6. Roller Ball Retainer Bolt
  7. Roller Ball
  8. Blade Holder Cross Slide
  9. Cutter Blade
  10. Cutter Blade Retaining Bolt
  11. Spring Can Bottom Barrel
  12. Vertical Slide
  13. Locking Nut for Stroke Adjustment
  14. Stroke Adjustment Bolt
  15. Main Spring
  16. Bottom Cap
Casing Cutter 6001
Casing Cutter 6002
Casing Cutter 6003
Casing Cutter 6004
Casing Cutter 6005
Casing Cutter 6006
Casing Cutter 6007
Casing Cutter 6008
Casing Cutter 6009
Casing Cutter 6010
Casing Cutter 6011
Casing Cutter 6012
Casing Cutter 6013
Casing Cutter 6014
Casing Cutter 6015
Casing Cutter 6016

Cylinder Top Barrel #4




Assembly - Top

Main body

Grease All Threads During Assembly

Main Body #5 - Short groove is on bottom like a capital "L."

Cylinder Top Barrel #4

Cylinder Top Barrel #4 has only one end, with thread matching the Main Body #5.


Note: Cylinder Top Barrel #4 is longer than the Bottom Barrel #11.

iston Seal #3

Make sure Piston Seal #3 is on the piston and the flair side of the seal points to the long side (top) of the brass piston.

Insert Piston #2, with packing

at bottom and cup side up.

Piston #2
Tube End

Top Pin Connector #1

completes top assembly.

Top Pin Connector #1

Assembly - Bottom

Vertical Slide #12
Insert Vertical Slide #12 from the bottom


Grease All Moving Parts diagram


Blade Holder Cross Slide #8 to rotate Vertical Slide #12

Look into hole opening to see the Blade Holder Cross Slide #8.


Rotate the Vertical Slide #12 so the flat spot at the end of the track is centered in the opening.

Insert the Blade Holder Cross Slide #8 into the pocket with the slope on the bottom matching the slope of the Vertical Slide #12.
Blade Holder Cross Slide #8 to Vertical Slide #12
Push the Vertical Slide #12 upward and trap the Blade Holder Cross Slide #8 in the T-slot track.
Vertical Slide #12 to #8

The Stroke Adjustment Bolt #14 is pre-adjusted and locked by the Locking Nut #13 at the factory.


Screwing in the Stroke Adjustment Bolt #14 a little further makes the cutter blade come out a little further.

Stroke Adjustment Bolt #14

Assembly - Test and Adjust

Parts to be Oiled
These parts should be oiled (Rock Drill oil works well).
Push slide up and down
Push the slide up and down to make sure it slides easily and the cutter blade goes in and out.

Assembly - Bottom

Screw on the Spring Can

Bottom Barrel #11.

Spring Can Bottom Barrel #11
Insert Main Spring #15.
Main Spring #15

It may take two strong people to push the spring in and start threading the Bottom Cap #16. To change the blade, unscrew the Bottom Cap far enough to allow the Vertical Slide #12 to be pushed down by air (or by broomstick) allowing the cross slide to be pulled out.

CAUTION: Do not unscrew the Bottom Cap #16 all the way! It could surprise or injure you. The Blade Holder Cross Slide #8 can be removed when the bottom cap is half way unscrewed.

Bottom Cap #16 to Vertical Slide #12

Operating Case Cutter

Making a Cut - After the Casing Cutter is placed at the desired depth, begin rotation before turning on the air. Rotation speed should not be over 12 RPM for 6" pipe and not more than 6 RPM for 12" pipe.

As air pressure builds, the Casing Cutter will be make its cut through the pipe. The cut is often complete before the air reaches full air pressure, which should be about 200 to 300 PSI. 150 PSI will take perhaps 15 seconds longer.

How do you know when the pipe is cut through? You may see the pipe move or jerk. With thin wall pipe, the cut is usually made in less than one minute. Pipe has been cut in as little as 20 seconds. Thicker wall pipe like 3/8", consult with a representative.

Retracting the Blade - Rotating with the air bled off will push the blade back into the Casing Cutter. Do this before pulling out of the hole.

Storing the Casing Cutter - It is important to remember that the Casing Cutter might be stored long enough to rust, in between uses. You will thank yourself later when you take out a good working tool when you need it.

There are three main areas to grease:

  1. Roller Ball Retainer Bolt #6
  2. Roller Boll #7
  3. Blade Holder Cross Slide #8
AWDS logo

If you disassemble your Casing Cutter, be sure to grease the threads as you put it back together.